First Blog Post: On the way to Japan Tokyo -Day 1
Second Blog Post : On the way to Japan - visiting Fuji-san
Third Blog Post: Tour to Mount Hakone and Ashi Lake
Seventh Blog Post: Kyoto Temple Pilgrimage - Temple of the Thousand Buddhas, Bamboo Forest, Zen Temple, Golden Temple, and Shinto Shrine.
Eighth blog post: Last day in kyoto and Deers of Nara
Ninth blog post: A train lover's best day
Tenth Blog Post: From Kyoto to Osaka by bullet train, then back to Kyoto by tourist train
In the city of Osaka, a beautiful river flows between many large buildings. This is the Yodo River, which empties into Osaka Bay. Some of the buildings here look like a bunch of matchboxes standing on end.
On the morning of May 25th, we met our tour guide. He was an Irishman who, like many others we'd met, had married a Japanese woman and settled down in Japan. It was raining heavily, so we were stuck in the castle park. During the wait, the guide started telling us the old story about how Japanese people work themselves to death, with very strict rules at their workplaces.
From the castle park, we went to a Shinto shrine. The way people worship there is a bit unusual. First, you have to wash your hands and feet with water from a basin, which I remember had a tap. After that, you offer money by throwing coins, then ring a bell. Finally, you bow your head twice, clap your hands twice, and then put your hands together to say your prayer.
We had some tea and relaxed for a while until the evening. We had made a mental note of a place we wanted to try. They serve a dish called Tako Tamago, which is a quail egg stuffed inside a whole baby octopus head, and another dish called Takoyaki, which is various types of fried octopus. Since this restaurant specializes in these items, we decided to go there.
It was around 8:35 p.m. I saw what looked like one person acting as both the waiter and the chef. When we asked if there were two of them, they said they were closed now. I pointed out a few tourists eating inside and said, "There are only two of us, we won't eat much, and we'll leave quickly." But they still refused. We came back outside, and Ines pointed to the sign, saying it looked like they were supposed to close at 8:30. I said, "But the others are still sitting there, and they're still making food for them." I had read that some Japanese restaurants have small signs that say, "No entry if you don't speak Japanese.
So we started walking again. We found another nice little restaurant, and I went in saying "Konnichiwa." Ines followed behind me. The Japanese chef inside didn't seem to notice her. He just pointed his finger at me.
The Japanese chef, whose English wasn't very good, said, "You drink? No drink, no come."
"Yes, yes, I drink," I replied, and walked in. Ines followed behind me.
The chef then asked me, "She drink, no drink?"
I quickly said, "Yes!"
We sat down, exchanging smiles with the two or three other people there.
The chef then explained the ordering process: "Okay, you go website order. One starter, one drink." (He meant we had to go to the website to order, and that one appetizer and one drink were mandatory per person.)
The chef heard everything. "No, no, no! Water? You go!" he said sternly.
Just then, an American tourist sitting on a stool next to us spoke up. "You guys have to drink here. He doesn't like it when people don't drink. I thought you were the one who didn't drink," he said, pointing at me.
Ines responded, "He'll drink anywhere. I just don't drink when I'm tired." The couple was from Texas.
I asked the man, "Why did you think I wouldn't drink?" He winked toward the chef and said, "He'll tell you himself." The couple then gave us a list of the food they'd eaten and left.
Fearing that Ines would get up and leave, I quickly ordered two sakes and two starters.
Ines got up. "I want to watch him cook," she said, and moved to sit on the stool where the American couple had been sitting. Normally, no one would challenge something she does like that.
Then, the chef spoke up. "No sit there. No sit there. No change, no change!" he said, his English sounding like someone who had just arrived in an English-speaking country.
Ines explained, "I moved there because I want to watch you cook." From that seat, you had a much better view of the cooking area. But the chef sternly replied, "No, you don't need to watch. Go back to the chair you were sitting in!
In the meantime, the chef and I became great friends, especially after I finished my sake. He told me to call him "Mr. Jack" because that was the name he went by. While this was happening, Ines was like a heron, craning her neck to see what he was cooking. Eventually, Mr. Jack felt bad.
"Okay, you go there," he said, gesturing for Ines to move to a stool at the end of the bar. I moved to sit next to her, and then I finally understood why he hadn't wanted her to move earlier. There was a number on each stool. When we placed our order on the website, we had to enter our seat number, which would then show up on his iPad and a small monitor above. This is how he kept track of orders and prepared the final bill. It was a simple, efficient system that didn't require a waiter. A small Japanese or Taiwanese girl was helping out, as the place was extremely busy. Mr. Jack told me the upstairs was also packed with customers. I realized he must be quite famous in the area.
The tuna dish I ordered, shown in the picture below, is called takaki. This isn't sushi or sashimi; it's not completely raw. The chef beautifully seared the outside of the fish slices, leaving the inside a perfect pink—like a steak cooked between medium-rare and medium. It's truly an art form, and you can't get it that perfect without a lot of practice. He gave me his own special sauce to go with it.
For the gyoza, Mr. Jack gave us a different sauce. This is how he elevates the flavor of his food; he cooks with great care and precision. At one point, Ines noticed he made a mistake with a dish and immediately threw it into the trash.
Two Chinese women sat next to us. They had come to see a J-pop concert. One was a student living there, and the other had come from China just for the show. They ordered two massive German-sized beers and a large main course. Seeing this, I thought, "These are the real meals!" I used to think the videos of Chinese girls eating endlessly on Instagram and TikTok were fake, but these two were just like that.
After that, he told me why he'd asked if we drank. He said, "Indian people like you come in here and only ask for water!" I just laughed.
Ines then said, "You don't need to tell him to drink. He drinks anyway." I replied, "I was born in Sri Lanka but live in London. Many people in Sri Lanka drink a little bit as a kind of medicine with their meals, so it's safe to let them in." As I said this, Ines ordered a Suntory beer, and Mr. Jack's smile grew even wider.
We honestly felt like we should have ordered two full meals, even if we couldn't eat it all. But Jack didn't seem to mind. He even gave us a running commentary on the things he was cooking. Ines wrote it down, though I have no idea where her notes are now.
For dessert, I ordered a sesame ball dish. It had rice inside and was served with a jam-like sauce made from some kind of berry. It was delicious. The combination of the creamy sesame, the rice, and the jam was perfect. It would actually be a great breakfast. Plus, these types of things fill you up quickly.
This experience strongly reinforced my belief that the Japanese are not as racist as some might think. They simply have a certain way of doing things, and you have to understand it. I have two more articles to write, and I'll need to expand on this topic in one of them.
In a comment on a previous article, someone suggested that my German wife, Ines, was with me, so I might not have felt the full effect of any racism. But the answer to that is right here in this experience: there was no such thing. I felt that Japanese people are very direct and say what they mean to your face.
These are the videos from Osaka.
You may have a different ideas. Pease comment if it is.
Ajith 10/08/2025