Food tour in Osaka, Sayonara Japan

 

First Blog Post: On the way to Japan Tokyo -Day 1

Second  Blog Post : On the way to Japan - visiting Fuji-san 

Third Blog Post: Tour to Mount Hakone and Ashi Lake

Fourth Blog Post: Tokyo Skytree and Model train shop 

Fifth Blog Post: Food in Japan and Kyoto grandmother's small cafe 

Sixth Blog Post: Kyoto temple trips - Kiyomizu - dera or The pure water monastery 

Seventh Blog Post:  Kyoto Temple Pilgrimage - Temple of the Thousand Buddhas, Bamboo Forest, Zen Temple, Golden Temple, and Shinto Shrine.

Eighth blog post: Last day in kyoto and Deers of Nara 

Ninth blog post: A train lover's best day 

Tenth Blog Post: From Kyoto to Osaka by bullet train, then back to Kyoto by tourist train

Eleventh blog post: After exploring Osaka , dinner at Mr. Jack's unusual restaurant

Twelth blog posr: Travel from Osaka to Kobe - To Arima Onsen Hot Springs Journey

This is the last letter of this Japanese tour series. If you are vegetarian, please do not read any further. We went for a food tour on this last day in Osaka. This is the story of the food tour.

In the morning of thus day we were in Kobe. This is the evening of that day, so we were not that hungry anyway. Ines said this food tour is only for small bite-sized food, so this will be ok. The tour guide was an American living in Osaka. He is the guy with blond hair sitting in front of me. He is married to a Japanese girl like other expats. He was different from the others, not a big critic of the Japanese way of life.

Our team had four American men from California and a middle-aged English couple from our side of North London. A little later, their daughter also joined.

This street food tour was in the Japanese street food section of Osaka (not the Korean section I mentioned in the previous letter).  We went to a district in Osaka called Shinsekai.

We started with beer. Since all of us were good drinkers, it wasn't a problem. Japanese beer is great. It means your stomach doesn't get too bloated. It's somewhere between an ale and a lager, sort of like drinking Sri Lankan Lion Lager with a little bit of stout mixed in.

Since it was evening, just like at the restaurant we went to yesterday, the guide also suggested we go for small, bite-sized foods. A cooking method native to Osaka (which started there) is called kushikatsu. This involves skewering various types of meat, vegetables, and fish onto bamboo skewers, dipping them in a light batter made from flour and breadcrumbs, and deep-frying them. They are served with cabbage, along with a sauce similar to soy sauce. Cabbage is also eaten a lot in Germany; the reason is to help digest the meat more easily. "Kushi" means skewer (a bamboo or metal stick), and "katsu" refers to a cutlet that is well-fried in oil.

Don't confuse this with tempura; that's different. Tempura has a heavier batter, meaning it fries into a thicker consistency. They also add panko breadcrumbs, which have a crunchy, crispy texture like pappadums. They even fry lotus petals to eat with them.

At the place where we started, they made noodles on the spot by putting them in hot water. They served it with small pieces of fried meat and fish, along with a shot of sake. I wrote down the names of all these foods on a piece of paper, but my wife threw it away. So, if anyone knows what they were, please write them down. I'll include them in the blog.

The other type of food is called karaage. This is made by marinating meat in sauces, similar to how we marinate meat before barbecuing. Afterwards, it's coated in a flour and potato starch mixture and fried. Again, I'm saying this is not tempura.

The taste of each of these foods is different. This is a country where the flavor of the dishes varies according to the cooking method, the chef who makes it, and the region the ingredients come from. I've put pictures of these foods on the slide, along with pictures of the restaurants we visited .  

Our American guide gave a big speech when we went to the next restaurant. "You may not want to eat this. Perhaps you won't even try it. Please don't scold me."

So, what did he bring us? Horse meat.

Horse meat is not banned in UK and is  legal to sell and consume. (However, there is a strong cultural taboo against eating it, and very little is consumed domestically. Most horse meat produced in the UK is exported abroad, and the legal sale of horse meat is subject to strict labelling to prevent misrepresentation, as highlighted by the 2013 horse meat scandal-google) and not eaten in America. It's exported to other countries for consumption. Our North London English couple and their daughter took a big gasp. One of them covered their mouth with a hand. The four American guys also looked a little surprised.

Ines and I were fine; we just watched.

"Oh, do they eat it in Germany?" the guide asked. Ines replied, "I've eaten it, and Ajith has eaten it in Russia."  I explained that in some canteens served horemeat in Moscow. They served ithe horse meat with ginger, something like garlic, and wasabi.

The last place we went to had the same food I described in a previous blog post: tako tamago. Remember, that's a whole octopus head fried in a light batter. However, this one was prepared in a different way. A picture of the restaurant is below.

They served a drink similar to cider, and to be honest, you couldn't eat that dish without it.

 In a few of these restaurants, there is a statue of an angry chef, and  known as the Angry Chef. This chef is supposedly always angry. If people leave food without eating it all, he scolds them. He holds two fried meat skewers in his hand. He's the mascot for a chain of restaurants called Ganso Kushikatsu Daruma. He's the one who established the rule that you can't double-dip the same meat skewer into the sauce. He's also the one peeking out in the picture above.

During the day, we also went to a coffee shop and had two Japanese iced coffees with a mochi cake

"In Japan, there are still places that show pornographic films depicting sexual acts, similar to what used to be in the Soho area near London's Piccadilly Circus. These are no longer found in cities like London.

So, on our last day, we filled our bellies, said our goodbyes to the group, and left. Thinking about it, there are enough things about Japan to write one more letter.

This trip was booked with a prize I received from my company for my 25 years of service. I often don't take things like goods. The prize I got when I finished 20 years was used to travel to Cambodia and Sri Lanka. Many workers get things like iPhones, Rolexes, expensive watches, valuable household items, or expensive clothes. I never had much desire for those things. I once had an expensive watch with stones on it, but it got lost. Traveling to different countries is much more valuable.

When I was booking this trip, I looked at both China and Japan. Getting a visa for China takes three months, so I decided to skip China and go to Japan. I now know that was a very good decision. Tours to Japan are expensive here. I saw an ad on Facebook for a company called "Fair for You" and the price was reasonable. Their office is in Romford. Once, when the reservation agent called, he sounded Asian, but his name was Iyan Smith. There was a letter wrong in the name. When he called me last year while I was in Sri Lanka, he picked up the phone instantly, without the usual delay. Ines made most of the changes to the package. We removed the part about seeing geishas, and temples were added instead.

When we were talking in London, I asked him if he was calling from an Asian country. It turned out he was from Sri Lanka. Iyan said that when he was calling from Sri Lanka, he also wanted to ask me about it but didn't. Iyan's workplace, 'Fair for You' is a good company. The price is reasonable, and they provide good service. They checked on us throughout our entire trip. I'll probably book our next tour with them as well.

I have a strong desire to go back to Japan. I probably would have to find a job that lasts about two years so I can go everywhere includiing Okonawa.. I haven't made a decision yet.

Well then, let's meet in the next letter. Tomorrow I'll be in Finland.

Ajith- 06/09/2025 

  

Travel from Osaka to Kobe - To Arima Onsen Hot Springs Journey

 

First Blog Post: On the way to Japan Tokyo -Day 1

Second  Blog Post : On the way to Japan - visiting Fuji-san 

Third Blog Post: Tour to Mount Hakone and Ashi Lake

Fourth Blog Post: Tokyo Skytree and Model train shop 

Fifth Blog Post: Food in Japan and Kyoto grandmother's small cafe 

Sixth Blog Post: Kyoto temple trips - Kiyomizu - dera or The pure water monastery 

Seventh Blog Post:  Kyoto Temple Pilgrimage - Temple of the Thousand Buddhas, Bamboo Forest, Zen Temple, Golden Temple, and Shinto Shrine.

Eighth blog post: Last day in kyoto and Deers of Nara 

Ninth blog post: A train lover's best day 

Tenth Blog Post: From Kyoto to Osaka by bullet train, then back to Kyoto by tourist train

Eleventh blog post: After exploring Osaka , dinner at Mr. Jack's unusual restaurant

The next day in Osaka was entirely planned by me. We were going from the city of Osaka to the Kobe prefecture for two reasons. From this point on, this article might be difficult for vegetarians to read.

  

The first time I ate Kobe beef was in Moscow in 2016. A new Japanese restaurant had opened near our old hostel. I ordered a Wagyu steak from the menu. The steak was round, placed in the center of the plate, and garnished beautifully. When I told the chef it had a different flavor from the steaks in London, he said it was Kobe beef.

About Kobe Beef

Wagyu beef is a type of beef found throughout Japan. Wagyu simply means "Japanese cow." This meat is expensive but delicious. It has a beautiful marbling (the white fatty layers inside the meat that look like marble), a special flavor, and is buttery soft and very tender. Wagyu beef is also produced in other countries, including the U.S.

However, Kobe beef, which is a type of Wagyu that comes from the Kobe region, is a top-quality Wagyu meat from cows raised exclusively in the Hyōgo Prefecture of Japan. It is a specific strain called Tajima-Gyu. Similar to how Champagne can only be produced in the Champagne region of France, Kobe beef can only be produced in Kobe.

Not everyone can produce Kobe beef. The cow must be of the Tajima lineage, have a grade of A4/A5, and the marbling must be over six. If these conditions aren't met, they don't get the certificate to sell it. Going to Kobe itself to eat Kobe beef is a special treat.  

Arima Onsen Hot Springs

The second reason for the trip was to visit Arima Onsen. Onsen are spa-like bathhouses built around natural hot springs. Arima Onsen is located in the Kita-ku ward of Kobe City. It was mentioned in a book written by Sei Shōnagon, a court lady from 990 AD, and is noted in the Japanese historical writings of Nihon Shoki from the 8th century. It is also said that the waters of these hot springs have healing properties and were used during the time of Emperor Emmu in 794.

There are two types of spring water here. Kinsen (Gold Spring)  water is a golden or brownish color due to its high iron content. It is said to make the skin soft and healthy.Ginsen (Silver Spring) water contains radium and carbonates. It is said to relieve muscle and joint pain.

The day started with a beautiful train journey from Osaka. I've posted four YouTube videos (from one to four) about this trip. This is the Arima Railway Scenic Route, which goes through the Mount Rokkō mountain range.

Because this was a local train, I was able to stand behind the driver and film from the front part of the carraige. Next to me was a man in a train uniform, wearing a huge smile from ear to ear. When we reached our final stop at the Sannomiya-Arimaguchi station, he told me to keep filming while he directed the passengers off the train and cross the railway line. He explained that he works for the train company, specifically to help tourists who board the train. The person you see in this video handling the crowd is that Japanese railway employee.

  I included some train pictures from the journey in the slide show. Like my other articles, this one also features some of Japan's beautiful trains. The second part of the slideshow shows the inside of the Arima Onsen hot springs. When we arrived at the station, a bus from the onsen was there to pick us up. The name of this particular onsen is Taiko-no-yu.
Since it was a weekday, most of the visitors were retired older people. Some were even there with their grandchildren. As we were waiting in line, a Japanese woman tapped my wife, Ines, on the shoulder. She had two vouchers and offered them to us. Normally, an entrance ticket costs around ¥3,500 (about £17), but thanks to her generosity, we were able to get in for half the price. We paid at the end of our visit.   

After buying our tickets, we were given two kimonos to wear and two lockers to store all of our clothes. We could only retrieve our items at the very end of our visit. We first went to the hot springs to bathe.

Now, there are two rules here. First, unlike in England, which has a sort of Victorian morality, you can't wear clothes like bikinis or shorts into the baths. You have to go in like Desmond Morris's "The Naked Ape." That was fine by me, as it's the same in places like Russia and Germany, which I've been to before. The men's and women's baths are separate.

The next rule is that no tattoos are allowed, not even small ones. If you're seen with a tattoo, you'll be kicked out. The reason for this is that to be a part of the Yakuza, the Japanese mafia, you have to have a snake tattoo on your back or chest. Since they can't forbid only the Yakuza, they've banned anyone with a tattoo.

 

So I got into the water with radium and carbonates that you can see in the picture. It was hot, maybe around 60 to 70 degrees Celsius. There were four or five Japanese men in the bath. After a little while, I felt like I was being boiled alive, so I got out. Then I got into the golden-colored water, which was right there. Oh my goodness, that water was about 80 degrees Celsius! I jumped right out. The Japanese men laughed. One of them told me to go to the upper level, explaining that the water there was cooler because it was outside. 

When I went upstairs, I saw small wooden tubs all around, each big enough for one person. In the center, there was a slightly larger pool with rocks. I got into that one. The water was only about 50 degrees Celsius. Since there was a bit of a breeze outside, it was fine. The Japanese man next to me started talking to me, asking where I was from etc. It turned out he was a train driver on a beautiful route, the Hanshin Main Line, which also goes along the sea. He told me he was retiring that month. I said, "That's great! You'll be free and can travel the world." The man laughed. He said that with his salary, he'd already taken his wife on holidays all over the American continent, Europe, and Australia. He said that was enough, and he couldn't stay at home because it was his wife's "territory." I asked if that was a bit traditional, and mentioned that our wives work. "Oh, my wife is a teacher," he said. "The school is near the house." He told me he'd already found a job and would have to take a small accounting course. Amazing that is. he still wants to work.

When I'd had enough of being "boiled," I said goodbye to my new friend and went downstairs to find my wife. Another tourist couple was there. I told them to tell anyone who wasn't Asian to come up. They laughed heartily. Just then, my wife came out, and we went to the sauna, which is a room where you can lie down on the floor. Men and women can be in this room together. There was only one spot open. Inside, there was another room that was even hotter. At that moment, the couple who gave us the vouchers was there. They told us they were leaving and that we could have their spots. There were three or four other couples there. We lay down and fell asleep. The truth is, after being in the hot springs, you feel so relaxed that you just fall asleep.

Afterward, we went to the massage area. Here, too, men and women were in separate rooms. It was a type of Ayurvedic massage.

Then it was time for lunch. The place was mostly full of people our age, probably because it was a workday. But it was truly a wonderfully relaxing life.

 

We ordered two Kobe beef meals, served with soup and rice.  First, they brought out prawns, a noodle salad, and a small set of nigiri. 

Then, they brought out the Kobe beef. You can see how the fat marbling looks like a map. Each side of the beef has a unique line pattern.

   

They gave us a small stove to cook the beef ourselves. You turn it on, add some sauce, like yakinku or miso paste, to the water, and then cook the beef to your liking. It's true—the beef really does melt in your mouth. This is the stove they gave us. You can find the same setup in Korean and Cambodian restaurants. 

After eating, we paid the bill and headed back the same way we came. I was so sleepy I wished we could've just stayed there to sleep. I later found out that there's a hotel right there where you can spend the night.

Anyway, we made our way back to Osaka, and I filmed that journey, too. This isn't the end of our trip to Japan, though. We had one last food tour planned after this. You're probably tired of hearing my Japanese stories by now. Please read it and let me know what you think.. 

Ajith-24/08/2025